How We Laser Engrave a Slate Coaster — Start to Finish
We get a lot of questions about how the coasters are made. "Is it painted on?" No. "Is it a sticker?" Definitely not. "Do you carve it by hand?" I wish I was that talented.
Here's the actual process, from raw slate to finished coaster.
Step 1: The Slate
Everything starts with the material. We use S1-grade American slate — that's the highest grade available. It's hand-split, meaning each piece has a natural texture on the surface that gives it character. The edges are smooth and clean with no chipping or rough corners.
We work with both black and green slate in square (4") and round (3.8") formats. Each coaster comes with felt feet already applied to the bottom to protect your furniture.
The quality of the slate matters more than most people realize. Cheap imported slate (the stuff you see in bulk on Amazon) tends to flake, crack unevenly, and has rough edges. The difference in person is obvious.
Step 2: The Design
If you chose a pre-made design, we pull it from our library and prep it for engraving. If you used our coaster designer or uploaded your own image, we review it and optimize it for the laser.
This is where we do things like:
- Clean up edges and fine details that might not translate well to stone
- Adjust contrast so the engraving pops against the slate
- Scale and position everything precisely
- Prepare any edge engraving patterns
Before anything hits the laser, we send you a digital proof for approval. This is your chance to catch typos, adjust sizing, or make changes. We don't engrave until you say go.
Step 3: The Laser
We use an xTool F2 Ultra — specifically, the UV laser module. This is a big deal and here's why.
Most laser engravers use infrared (IR) or CO2 lasers. These work by heating the material. On slate, that means the engraving can look rough, inconsistent, and slightly melted at the edges. The heat also limits how fine the detail can be.
A UV laser works differently. It uses a shorter wavelength (355nm) that essentially vaporizes material at the molecular level without significant heat transfer to the surrounding area. The result:
- Sharper lines — details that would blur with a thermal laser stay crisp
- Smoother fills — large engraved areas come out even, without the "banding" effect common with IR lasers
- Better contrast — the engraved area is a clean, consistent light gray against the dark slate
- Fine text — we can engrave text small enough to read on the edge of a coaster
For more on UV laser technology, read our post on what UV laser engraving is and why it makes better custom gifts.
Step 4: Edge Engraving
This is the detail that sets our coasters apart from most sellers. After the face is engraved, we rotate the coaster and engrave along the edge — the thin side of the stone.
This is tricky because the edge is only about 4-5mm thick and has a natural, uneven surface. The UV laser handles it well, but it requires precise positioning and multiple passes. Most shops don't bother because it's time-consuming. We think it's worth it — it's the kind of touch that makes someone pick up a coaster and actually look at it.
Step 5: Inspection and Packaging
Every coaster gets inspected after engraving. We check for:
- Engraving quality and consistency
- Edge integrity (no chips or cracks from handling)
- Felt feet adhesion
- Overall cleanliness
Then they're wrapped in protective packaging. For our premium sets, that means shrink wrap, a burlap drawstring bag, and a laser-engraved wood hang tag.
The Whole Process
From the time you approve your proof to the time your coasters ship, it's typically 3-5 business days. Most of that is print queue time — the actual engraving takes about 5-8 minutes per coaster face, depending on the complexity of the design.
Ready to make your own? Start here — pick a design or create something custom.
Every coaster is made to order at our studio in Lavon, TX. No bulk inventory, no factory line — just one maker, one laser, and a lot of slate.
